There are so many elements that go into making the beautiful pocket squares you see nestled in the breast pockets of stylish modern men. Choosing the perfect one goes beyond mere colour or pattern – you also need to consider the fabric, fold and of course, the finish.

When fabric is cut from silk reams to create a pocket square, each one is finished in a particular way. The type of finishing you choose depends on your personal style, preference and the look you’re trying to create.

We’ve put a few pointers together below to help you understand the difference and ensure you pick the perfect pocket square for you.

Hand Rolled Edges

This finish is the ultimate sign of a high-quality pocket square. This means the edges have been sewn by hand, giving it a beautifully classic finish.

One obvious distinction that hand-hemmed pocket squares have over machine-hemmed is that while the work is neat and the stitching immaculate, no two sides are exactly the same. This creates authenticity, assuring people that your pocket square is the work a true master.

Machine Stiched Edges

As the name suggests, this finish is carried out with a machine and is common among mass-produced pocket squares. In order for the machine to stitch accurate lines, a weight is used to keep the fabric in place, which gives a flatter appearance to the edges.

The finish is a fine, straight line along the edges with uniformity among the sides, as you can see in the below example. You'll notice a tidy, crisp finish which created a flawless appearance in your breast pocket.

Rolled Hem Edges

This is also known as a rollover stitch or rolled edge and is typically found on the highest-quality pocket squares. Traditionally done using hand stitching, the hem of the silk square is carefully rolled by a skilled craftsperson, creating a sophisticated, subtly plump edge. The result – a silk (or sometimes cotton) pocket square that folds and drapes perfectly.

A hand-rolled hem is probably the best finish you can get on a pocket square, and due to the hand-hemming technique, you’re assured a specially-made, one-of-a-kind pocket square.

Front or Back Rolled Hems?

This really comes down to personal preference. If a hem is rolled to be visible on the printed side of a pocket square, this is usually called a ‘French rolled hem’; if it’s visible on the back, it’s known as an ‘Italian rolled hem’.

What does Mr. Jenks use?

The silk pocket squares from our Spring/Summer Collection have hand-rolled edges and going forward, we’ll be applying this same finish to all of our products. This is because…

We feel it facilitates a better fold in your breast pocket;The finish adds more definition to the pocket square;It creates a luxury
product you can be proud to wear

But most importantly, we want to offer the very best to our customers

1 Response

Coniah Grimes
Coniah Grimes

April 30, 2017

Thanks so much for this information. It’s nicely organized and succinct. Is it possible that you could update the pictures with either color ones or actual example items?

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